Deep into the night in the Colombian wilderness, after three hours of drunken conversation about Albert Hoffman's legacy in the modern drug world, Manuel and I leave a small inn in the troubled town of Corinto on a very dangerous journey.
Today was City Day in Corinto, which turned into a night of public drunkenness. In the neighboring streets, the landowning cowboys, aka drug traffickers, who, as is customary on such a night, start random shootouts among themselves and with the local «Indians».
For several decades, the war between them has been waged not for life but for death for land and freedom. The old-timers warned us that it is not safe to go out on this very night, but, a little brave thanks to the sugar cane moonshine given to us by the elders of the local tribe, we set off - after all, we need to crawl a few dozen meters to the nearest store, where the cherished ice cream is sold.
Today was City Day in Corinto, which turned into a night of public drunkenness. In the neighboring streets, the landowning cowboys, aka drug traffickers, who, as is customary on such a night, start random shootouts among themselves and with the local «Indians».
For several decades, the war between them has been waged not for life but for death for land and freedom. The old-timers warned us that it is not safe to go out on this very night, but, a little brave thanks to the sugar cane moonshine given to us by the elders of the local tribe, we set off - after all, we need to crawl a few dozen meters to the nearest store, where the cherished ice cream is sold.
After all, everyone has moments in life when their favorite treat becomes more precious than life, and today I had such a moment.
A month ago, my colleague from the BB team and I went to Colombia for a drug policy education tour, which we organized specifically as part of the World Drug Policy Enlightenment Program. Our guide was Manuel, who has been living in Colombia for 30 years and did his best to introduce us to all the interesting drug policy trends in the country.
Why did we choose Colombia? The Latin American region was particularly hard hit during the «war on drugs» declared by the United States in the late 60s, which in countries like Mexico and Colombia turned from an American metaphor into a real militarized conflict with many victims and devastating consequences.
His task was to organize the trip and thematic meetings, and I must say he did a great job with it. My task now is to tell you about my trip, because until now I had not been to any Latin American country (especially Colombia), nor had I heard of anyone from this country except Pablo Escobar, former president Cesar Gaviria and Gabriel Garcia Marquez (thanks to the famous TV series).
A month ago, my colleague from the BB team and I went to Colombia for a drug policy education tour, which we organized specifically as part of the World Drug Policy Enlightenment Program. Our guide was Manuel, who has been living in Colombia for 30 years and did his best to introduce us to all the interesting drug policy trends in the country.
Why did we choose Colombia? The Latin American region was particularly hard hit during the «war on drugs» declared by the United States in the late 60s, which in countries like Mexico and Colombia turned from an American metaphor into a real militarized conflict with many victims and devastating consequences.
His task was to organize the trip and thematic meetings, and I must say he did a great job with it. My task now is to tell you about my trip, because until now I had not been to any Latin American country (especially Colombia), nor had I heard of anyone from this country except Pablo Escobar, former president Cesar Gaviria and Gabriel Garcia Marquez (thanks to the famous TV series).
We spent our first week in Bogota. It is a stunning, vibrant and very beautiful city of about 8 million people. We took an Uber at the airport, but the cab driver dropped us off 15 minutes from home because all the roads were blocked due to an evening parade of cyclists in the city center, which we somehow immediately disliked!
On the other hand, thanks to this glitch, we managed to communicate with a bunch of Bogotinians on the first evening: google-maps didn't work without cellular connection, and we had to find our way in the tried-and-true grandfatherly way, harassing all passers-by. My first impressions of Bogotá —1990 did not end here.
At the sluggishly playing fountains in the park sit informals with pigtails, playing guitar, on the streets walk punks and a lot of similar young people of intelligent appearance with an unclouded postironichesky look.
On the other hand, thanks to this glitch, we managed to communicate with a bunch of Bogotinians on the first evening: google-maps didn't work without cellular connection, and we had to find our way in the tried-and-true grandfatherly way, harassing all passers-by. My first impressions of Bogotá —1990 did not end here.
At the sluggishly playing fountains in the park sit informals with pigtails, playing guitar, on the streets walk punks and a lot of similar young people of intelligent appearance with an unclouded postironichesky look.
In the end, even with our poor knowledge of Spanish, after about forty minutes we managed to find the right entrance thanks to the kindness of the hippies we met along the way. We got a beautiful apartment with a dizzying view of the city, we couldn't have wished for anything better.
The next day, in a Macarena café, we discussed plans with Manuel and went to our first meeting in Bogotá, with Fundacion Procrear. It works to reduce drug-related harm and provides various services to marginalized people: homeless people, drug users, sex workers, street children.
«Procrear» started about twenty years ago as a maternity ward for women from vulnerable groups, and among their first projects was a «House of Tenderness» for mothers in emergencies.
We met the director of the organization, Juan Carlos Celis, at his company's office, located in one of the most disadvantaged neighborhoods of the city, Santa Fe. Such neighborhoods are not usually dared to be entered by any tourist or good bogotian, but fortunately we had good escorts with whom we were not afraid of anything.
The next day, in a Macarena café, we discussed plans with Manuel and went to our first meeting in Bogotá, with Fundacion Procrear. It works to reduce drug-related harm and provides various services to marginalized people: homeless people, drug users, sex workers, street children.
«Procrear» started about twenty years ago as a maternity ward for women from vulnerable groups, and among their first projects was a «House of Tenderness» for mothers in emergencies.
We met the director of the organization, Juan Carlos Celis, at his company's office, located in one of the most disadvantaged neighborhoods of the city, Santa Fe. Such neighborhoods are not usually dared to be entered by any tourist or good bogotian, but fortunately we had good escorts with whom we were not afraid of anything.
Juan Carlos described what they do: basically, it's a traditional set of harm reduction and social assistance programs, except that injecting drug use is not as prevalent in Bogotá as it is in other countries.
The most popular drugs in the Colombian capital and other cities in the country are basuco (something like crack, but not quite — a cheap smoking mixture of low-quality cocaine, coca paste and everything else from tobacco to ground bricks) and glue.
Among drug users there are a lot of homeless people, and, accordingly, one of the activities of Procrear is to help these poor people and provide them with basic benefits (day shelter, for example), providing them with food and clothing.
Such harm reduction programs are implemented on the basis of so-called listening centers (centros de escucha). Their concept is based on the following postulate: the need to be heard, understood and accepted with respect and care is one of the main needs of people from vulnerable groups.
The most popular drugs in the Colombian capital and other cities in the country are basuco (something like crack, but not quite — a cheap smoking mixture of low-quality cocaine, coca paste and everything else from tobacco to ground bricks) and glue.
Among drug users there are a lot of homeless people, and, accordingly, one of the activities of Procrear is to help these poor people and provide them with basic benefits (day shelter, for example), providing them with food and clothing.
Such harm reduction programs are implemented on the basis of so-called listening centers (centros de escucha). Their concept is based on the following postulate: the need to be heard, understood and accepted with respect and care is one of the main needs of people from vulnerable groups.
We said goodbye to Juan Carlos in the room where classes and parties are held for homeless children, and went for a walk around the neighborhood with Laura, a social worker. Giving a beaming smile to the sex workers standing on the curb, Laura told us that she used to be a drag queen and prostitute herself, but that she had gone through a rehabilitation program and now considers social work her vocation.
By the way, prostitution in Bogotá is not legalized, but decriminalized: women can obtain a special permit from the local police, which allows them to provide intimate services in the so-called tolerance zones.
The next day we went to meet with staff from ATS (Assion Tecnica Social), an organization that works on harm reduction and other aspects of the problem. One of their main activities is advocacy: research and debate on new models of drug policy. Among the most important issues for Colombia today is the problem of regulating coca use.
55 years of prohibition of coca and its derivatives have shown that such measures are totally inadequate and counterproductive.
They did not bring any positive results. Today, 55 years after the signing of the Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs, cocaine, basuco have become much more accessible and cheaper year after year.
At the same time, people who use them cannot get adequate help due to their marginalized status, and farmers who have traditionally cultivated coca for centuries have become criminals: they are outlawed and sentenced to long prison terms.
By the way, prostitution in Bogotá is not legalized, but decriminalized: women can obtain a special permit from the local police, which allows them to provide intimate services in the so-called tolerance zones.
The next day we went to meet with staff from ATS (Assion Tecnica Social), an organization that works on harm reduction and other aspects of the problem. One of their main activities is advocacy: research and debate on new models of drug policy. Among the most important issues for Colombia today is the problem of regulating coca use.
55 years of prohibition of coca and its derivatives have shown that such measures are totally inadequate and counterproductive.
They did not bring any positive results. Today, 55 years after the signing of the Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs, cocaine, basuco have become much more accessible and cheaper year after year.
At the same time, people who use them cannot get adequate help due to their marginalized status, and farmers who have traditionally cultivated coca for centuries have become criminals: they are outlawed and sentenced to long prison terms.
Last year, Colombian President Juan Manuel Santos received the Nobel Peace Prize for the government's decision to finally disband the FARC and launch the peace process.
The activities of this and other leftist groups were also linked to the drug business, which was one of their main sources of income. In FARC-controlled areas, for example, they collected a «revolutionary tax» from coca growers to finance their organization.
A major component of the peace process is the search for alternatives to the war on drugs and new approaches in this area, and ATS is actively researching possible models for regulating medical and recreational coca use.
Another area of their work is what is known worldwide as «pilltesting» - testing substances that are thrown at parties and for recreational purposes. ATS has a mobile laboratory that allows for the qualitative testing of various drugs.
This kind of analysis won't tell you how much of this or that substance is in the wheels or powder, but at least you'll know if your «ecstasy» contains MDMA or if you bought a caffeine pill.
The activities of this and other leftist groups were also linked to the drug business, which was one of their main sources of income. In FARC-controlled areas, for example, they collected a «revolutionary tax» from coca growers to finance their organization.
A major component of the peace process is the search for alternatives to the war on drugs and new approaches in this area, and ATS is actively researching possible models for regulating medical and recreational coca use.
Another area of their work is what is known worldwide as «pilltesting» - testing substances that are thrown at parties and for recreational purposes. ATS has a mobile laboratory that allows for the qualitative testing of various drugs.
This kind of analysis won't tell you how much of this or that substance is in the wheels or powder, but at least you'll know if your «ecstasy» contains MDMA or if you bought a caffeine pill.
In this area, Bogotá is more «technologically advanced» than many European countries, as pilltesting can be done right at the event, unlike, for example, in Holland, where you have to check your staph in advance.
ATS also implements a number of harm reduction projects related to injecting drug use. It was news to me that Colombia has local production of not only coca and cannabis, but also opium poppy, which is used to make very cheap heroin for 4 dollars a gram.
The ATS project works not only in Bogotá but also in several other cities in Colombia and is funded both by foreign funds and by the national and local governments.
In the evening, we go with the ATS guys to do street work, which is carried out every day in several places in the city. The first stop is one of the central squares of Bogotá, where the organization's staff set up a large mobile tent where you can get clean syringes, condoms and HIV rapid tests. Here we were surrounded by the good-hearted heroin punks of Bogotá, who made everyone laugh so hard with their pranks.
The next morning we boarded the bus and traveled from Cali to Medellin, which for obvious historical reasons is one of the most famous cities in Colombia: it was the home of the cartel led by Pablo Escobar.
ATS also implements a number of harm reduction projects related to injecting drug use. It was news to me that Colombia has local production of not only coca and cannabis, but also opium poppy, which is used to make very cheap heroin for 4 dollars a gram.
The ATS project works not only in Bogotá but also in several other cities in Colombia and is funded both by foreign funds and by the national and local governments.
In the evening, we go with the ATS guys to do street work, which is carried out every day in several places in the city. The first stop is one of the central squares of Bogotá, where the organization's staff set up a large mobile tent where you can get clean syringes, condoms and HIV rapid tests. Here we were surrounded by the good-hearted heroin punks of Bogotá, who made everyone laugh so hard with their pranks.
The next morning we boarded the bus and traveled from Cali to Medellin, which for obvious historical reasons is one of the most famous cities in Colombia: it was the home of the cartel led by Pablo Escobar.
Today's Medellín is nothing like the wild human jungle shown to us in the TV series «Narco». The city center gives the impression of a kind of tourist paradiso, with a high concentration of bars, clubs, restaurants and cultural attractions.
Speaking of «Narco»: the attitude of Colombians towards this educational series is strongly negative and is most simply expressed by the formula «We haven't seen it, but we condemn it!»
According to the general opinion, the creators of the movie put Colombia in an extremely unfavorable light: the cocaine problem is brought to the forefront, and this is the stereotype that Colombians would most like to get rid of.
Also, the series overly schematic and simplified the relationship between the state, drug mafia and other groups. Personally, I like «Narco» (despite the really crude schematism and some obvious prejudices: for example, all leftists, in particular M19, are portrayed as absolute idiots and unicorn hunters), but it is possible to understand Colombians and their desire to move away from cocaine stigma.
Speaking of «Narco»: the attitude of Colombians towards this educational series is strongly negative and is most simply expressed by the formula «We haven't seen it, but we condemn it!»
According to the general opinion, the creators of the movie put Colombia in an extremely unfavorable light: the cocaine problem is brought to the forefront, and this is the stereotype that Colombians would most like to get rid of.
Also, the series overly schematic and simplified the relationship between the state, drug mafia and other groups. Personally, I like «Narco» (despite the really crude schematism and some obvious prejudices: for example, all leftists, in particular M19, are portrayed as absolute idiots and unicorn hunters), but it is possible to understand Colombians and their desire to move away from cocaine stigma.
In Medellin we decided not to bother ourselves with meetings, as we were already wildly tired by that time, and just walked a lot around the fabulously beautiful city: we rode the funicular, got a tattoo with the geotag of Medellin and drank tart tempranillo in some too cozy evening restaurant.
The next morning we had breakfast eggs Benedict at a megahipster cafe and went to the Red Feminista Antimilitarista Women's Center, where we learned a lot about the feminist movement in Colombia.
Marta Restrepo, head of the center, described how work is being done to mobilize women for protection from violence and for economic empowerment. For example, cocaleras (women farmers involved in coca production) are now beginning to unite to fight for their economic rights.
She also showed us a horrifying map that the center had made of the results of a study on the murders of Medellín women in 2016.
It turned out that there are still a lot of these crimes: mostly sex workers, women involved in drug microtrafficking, and relatives of drug traffickers are killed.
The next morning we had breakfast eggs Benedict at a megahipster cafe and went to the Red Feminista Antimilitarista Women's Center, where we learned a lot about the feminist movement in Colombia.
Marta Restrepo, head of the center, described how work is being done to mobilize women for protection from violence and for economic empowerment. For example, cocaleras (women farmers involved in coca production) are now beginning to unite to fight for their economic rights.
She also showed us a horrifying map that the center had made of the results of a study on the murders of Medellín women in 2016.
It turned out that there are still a lot of these crimes: mostly sex workers, women involved in drug microtrafficking, and relatives of drug traffickers are killed.
From beautiful Medellín we flew back to Bogotá and spent another day there, drinking lemonade with coca, loitering around the city and mentally preparing for our flight home.
Our trip was very informative, and we were convinced that, indeed, the pace and depth of drug policy reforms in Colombia is the envy of any other country in the world.
It is very much to be hoped that all these good endeavors will not come to an end in the next years due to the re-election of the president, as well as the upcoming elections in the United States.
If you decide to go to Colombia as a tourist, I am very, very jealous of you in advance! Be sure to go to the planetarium and the Gold Museum for me, which we never got to because of the abundance of interesting meetings and adventures.
Our trip was very informative, and we were convinced that, indeed, the pace and depth of drug policy reforms in Colombia is the envy of any other country in the world.
It is very much to be hoped that all these good endeavors will not come to an end in the next years due to the re-election of the president, as well as the upcoming elections in the United States.
If you decide to go to Colombia as a tourist, I am very, very jealous of you in advance! Be sure to go to the planetarium and the Gold Museum for me, which we never got to because of the abundance of interesting meetings and adventures.
